McCartney and Karl Lagerfeld's
phenomenally successful ranges
for H&M, while Kim Jones and Philip
Treacy have recentiy stepped
up to create lines for Umbro. Although
these designs could be
considered gimmicky, by making limited
edition lines (which
usually sell out within a few
hysterical hours in the case of H&M),
they manage to keep a whiff of
exclusivity about them.
Film, as evidenced by McQueen's recent
show, is also
beginning to be used as a more
cost-effective means of showing
off new designs, "Films are
increasingly popular in place of or
combined with a catwalk show, and this
is something we have
been encouraging over the past five
years at SHOW studio through
our moving fashion channel. "
explains Penny Martin. "With the
exclusion of Alexander McQueen, film
tends to be screened at
London Fashion Week and made by
designers who are younger
and more aware of the potential for new
media. Also, producing
films is less expensive than even the
most basic show, which
costs around £50-70,000."
While it seems unlikely that these
small gestures will
overthrow the industry's traditions any
time soon, they do suggest
that creativity and innovation
continues to be alive and well within
the fashion world, despite the
corporate juggernaut that has
threatened to suppress the wilder
innovations to ensure
maximum financial gain. "The
industry is quite conservative, in
that they expect fashion week to exist
as it always did and most
journalists still want to see clothes
close-up," acknowiedges
Martin, "There are certainly moves
to incorporate strands of
branding into the shows... but I don't
think there is a singie
designer that would say the role of
their show is not to present
cutting edge design first and
foremost."
Despite this, Saville retains his bleak
viewpoint. "Fashion is
not defining progress anymore, it's
caught up in another place
and the workings behind it are pretty
Machiavellian in my
opinion," he says despairingly.
"I don't like seeing the secrecy
and outright lying of the industry, it
used to be like LSD, in that it
was something you might find difficult
but ultimately was
rewarding, but now it's like
crack." yanzic0508.
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