"I like to see how a fabric threads, what the selvage looks like, how it reacts to the scissors," she says, twirling a red and black cloqué sample with her fingers. "The structure of a fabric is what makes it organic."
Indeed, treating and manipulating fabrics are a Toledo signature. For fall, she "built" a gold silk damask with gray undertones by backing it with chiffon, then married the two fabrics with a picot machine. "I start with a very drapy fabric, which is perfect for the top of a dress, but then I give it structure and architecture by backing it, which works well for the bottom of the dress," she explains. "So you have a playful, barrel-like bottom that stands away from the body with a softer, sensual top that moves with the body."
Working in mostly nude, ivory, black and "elephant gray," one of her favorite colors, Toledo forgoes a defined palette for fall in favor of textures via stitching, patchworking and pleating that she says create the shade and color. A fake croc-embossed black acetate is a perfect example: "It's all black, but at a certain angle, when the light hits it, you see glimpses of silver," she says.
That red and black cloqué, meanwhile, will be cover-stitched or double-stitched to give it even more dimension. "It's a very couture-like fabric," says Toledo. "I plan on creating something with a military feel, something a bit more active."
And for another cloqué -- a richly textured wool and silk in gray and ivory -- Toledo is feeling particularly playful. "I want to shape it into a big pullover of some kind," she says. "Maybe I'll rib it to really enhance the texture." Leave it to Toledo to give even cloqué a friendly feel. yanzic0510.
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