a shawl-collar tuxedo, below, offers an old-world sophistication, since its silhouette is the only one not shared with a business suit. but because it is derived from the less formal smoking jacket, it looks best with a shirt that has a straight (not wing) collar. one caveat: the elliptical shape of shawl lapels can have the unfortunate effect of emphasizing that characteristic in a man who is built likewise.
some fusty fashion traditionalists will tell you that a notched-collar tuxedo, left, is inappropriate–too evocative, they say, of a business-suit silhouette. they are to be ignored. (in fact, they are being ignored; it is currently the best-selling tuxedo.) when it’s a one-button model, as this one is, the notch provides that minimal look so prevalent in fashion today.
a three-button silhouette, right, lends a contemporary edge to the notched-collar tuxedo. and while it looks perfect with a traditional bow tie here, this cut more than any other lends itself to being paired with more modern accessories: a simple straight-collar shirt and long necktie in black, for example, or perhaps a finely knit black turtleneck.
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it’s the bow tie that causes the most trouble, particularly because clip-ons look perfect and therefore artificial, which means you must wear only one you tie yourself. so if you don’t know how, find a relative, a sales-clerk in a good men’s store, george will, or even mr. peabody to teach you. (yes, that’s an instructional cop-out on our part, but we haven’t yet seen a printed diagram that doesn’t leave a man–and not the tie–in knots.) and once your mentor helps you get the basics down, practice–often, and more than ten minutes before you have to walk down the aisle. you’ll eventually master it. just as you did your shoelaces, which, come to think of it, is just how you tie a bow tie: right over left and under, left loop, right wraparound, push it through, and finish it off. easy, no?
the traditional butterfly bow tie, top, suits any man in any kind of tuxedo. the less common pointed bow looks best with a more sophisticated formal-wear kit–the single- or double-breasted peak and a wing-collar shirt, for example. the batwing, or square bow, is as understated as a tie gets. and because it’s much narrower than the other two ties, you should avoid it if you even come close to looking like al roker.
while we firmly believe that a man should always tie his bow tie himself, we are not stupid. keep this under your hat–we have a backup pre-tied number stashed away from those rubber-fingered, we’ve-got-to-be-on-the-dais-in-five-minutes emergencies. but here’s the deal: we wear it only with a straight-collar shirt so there’s no way anyone can see that it’s a phony (which one would if it were worn with a wing collar), and we rough it up some to make it look less than perfect. if anyone’s noticed our little trick, he hasn’t let on.
cuff links are the only safe place to personalize the black-tie uniform. typical designer-type links will do, of course, but so will the quiet ones you picked up at the flea market or that special pair you inherited from your grandfather. (ideally, links match your shirt studs, thought it isn’t a necessity as long as they complement each other somehow.) whichever you choose, keep the studs simple: gold, platinum, silver, or black enamel are best. (mother-or-pearl studs are traditionally reserved for white tie and tails.)
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