double-breasted tuxedos are governed by the same rule that dictates who should wear a double-breasted business suit. that rule: if your waist is bigger than your chest, avoid them or else you’ll look as if you’re donned a black barrel. double-breasted jackets should never be unbuttoned, since all that flapping fabric looks sloppy. on the plus side, keeping the jacket closed means you don’t (in fact, to maintain a trim appearance, you shouldn’t) wear a cummerbund or a vest.
the single-breasted peak, with lapels akin to that of the tail-coat, is the most traditional silhouette. it’s also among the most flaterring–the single closure defines a man’s waist; the forking lapels accentuate the width of his shoulders. and about those lapels: they are faced with either satin or grosgrain, and those men who pay attention to detail with make sure thier bow tie and cummerbund are of similar material. that’s right, no dots or sequins or bright-red silk.
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no matter what type of tuxedo you select, make sure it’s of light- or tropical-weight wool–we haven’t yet been in a ballroom or reception hall that wasn’t overheated. and speaking of color (yes, we know we weren’t, but you try to segue from fabric weights to color), though black is the universally accepted hue for a tuxedo, some men insist on midnight-blue, which, they say, offers a richness under indoor light that actual black often lacks. of course, we have no idea where you’d get a midnight-blue tuxedo, but we just thought you’d like to know. and speaking of color, a boutonniere, though unavoidable for members of a wedding party, suggests the sartorial dinosaur at any other event. we prefer to adorn our chests with a simple white linen pocket square.
a shawl-collar tuxedo, below, offers an old-world sophistication, since its silhouette is the only one not shared with a business suit. but because it is derived from the less formal smoking jacket, it looks best with a shirt that has a straight (not wing) collar. one caveat: the elliptical shape of shawl lapels can have the unfortunate effect of emphasizing that characteristic in a man who is built likewise.
some fusty fashion traditionalists will tell you that a notched-collar tuxedo, left, is inappropriate–too evocative, they say, of a business-suit silhouette. they are to be ignored. (in fact, they are being ignored; it is currently the best-selling tuxedo.) when it’s a one-button model, as this one is, the notch provides that minimal look so prevalent in fashion today.
a three-button silhouette, right, lends a contemporary edge to the notched-collar tuxedo. and while it looks perfect with a traditional bow tie here, this cut more than any other lends itself to being paired with more modern accessories: a simple straight-collar shirt and long necktie in black, for example, or perhaps a finely knit black turtleneck.
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it’s the bow tie that causes the most trouble, particularly because clip-ons look perfect and therefore artificial, which means you must wear only one you tie yourself. so if you don’t know how, find a relative, a sales-clerk in a good men’s store, george will, or even mr. peabody to teach you. (yes, that’s an instructional cop-out on our part, but we haven’t yet seen a printed diagram that doesn’t leave a man–and not the tie–in knots.) and once your mentor helps you get the basics down, practice–often, and more than ten minutes before you have to walk down the aisle. you’ll eventually master it. just as you did your shoelaces, which, come to think of it, is just how you tie a bow tie: right over left and under, left loop, right wraparound, push it through, and finish it off. easy, no?
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