Fashion houses thus compete to find ever more spectacular
permanent show spaces. Dolce & Gabbana, for
example, converted a cinema in Viale Piave into a
venue capable of seating over 1000 people.Japanese school uniforms .
headquarters built in 2001, and designed by star architect
Tadao Ando, occupies a former Nestle´ factory
and includes a 3400 m2 showroom
(Teatro
Armani)
with seating for 682 people. Milan’s Prada has rebuilt
another post-industrial space; and the Florentine firm
Gucci has a large venue at Piazza Oberdan. It is important
to note that as with the promotional events
channel, this channel is not only made up of local
actors. As can be seen in Fig. 1, iconic Parisian designers
such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, Neapolitan tailors Luiggi
Borrelli, and New York shoe designer Stuart Weitzman
have showroom space in Milan. These locational
choices are not supply-side strategies, such the location
of design facilities or production, but demand-side strategies
tailored to particular invited audiences.
For a less select audience, Milan has rows of flagship
stores from most of the world’s most prominent (or
aspiring) design and fashion houses and brands. The
city attracts many international designers eager to etch
their name on the city through the erection of a flagship
store. For instance, in 2005 Amsterdam-based designers
Victor & Rolf opened their first flagship store in a spectacularly
inverted, upside-down style where the floor is
on the ceiling, the ceiling on the floor, etc. Considerable
care is taken with getting the ‘right’ address, architecture,
assistants, etc. Flagship stores are designed as
dramatic statements and are subject to frequent and
expensive refits. Most flagships – for example Boffi’s
labyrinth of architect designed kitchens and bathrooms
– are primarily spectacular showcases for core product
collections. Other Milan flagship stores focus more as
concept stores and are explicit attempts by firms to
increase consumers’ awareness of their brand’s innovativeness
(CONCETTI, 2007). Many big-brand flagships
have begun to look more like department stores since
they collect and showcase all the collected sub-brands,
alliances, and diffusion lines the fashion house sells/
licenses. Thus, the five-storey Armani flagship/city
block includes various clothing lines, but also Armani
cocktails, books, accessories, furniture, cosmetics, perfumes,
chocolate, sushi, a nightclub, flowers, electronics,
etc. Dolce & Gabbana’s flagship includes
clothing, a bar, a spa, and a barber. Whilst all these are
shops, due to high costs and low turnover they are
often loss-leaders and their primary function is to
showcase products and the ‘brand values’ surrounding
them.
Showrooms and flagships act as shop windows for
fashion and design firms, but equally they add to the
profile of the city as a place where diverse high-status
products and actors can be seen. Shop windows are
not the only way fashion and design firms can flag
their presence and leave an imprint on Milan’s landscape.
Direct advertising channels such as billboards,
posters, and signage penetrate seemingly every aspect
of the cityscape (CRONIN,
2006).Sheath wedding gowns ,
Many of the fashion
conglomerates with a presence in Milan consciously
use the city’s infrastructure and buildings as integral
parts of their marketing and branding strategies.
Without even visiting a shop, ones’ experience of
Milan is inscribed with a clutter of billboards, etc. proclaiming
the importance of fashion to the city. At
Milan’s Linate Airport, visitors are welcomed by a
gigantic lettering atop the terminal building spelling
‘Armani’.
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